The road trip from Tropic, UT in Bryce Canyon to Maswick Lodge in Grand Canyon Village, on the south rim, was about a six hour drive with lots to see, learn about & people to meet. Somewhere along the way Nomi got a scoop of ice cream for the incredible price of $1.59 +50 cents for “Oreo cookie “crumble. It was about as good as it cost. And, with some sleuthing, we did find espresso along the way in some off-beat places.
Nomi had arranged our accommodations. With the on-line help of a guy from the Park Service, we got into the Maswik Lodge, in Grand Canyon Village. He was the same fella who got us into Springdale’s Cable Mountain Lodge (right next to the Zion Nat’l Park entrance.) Maswik Lodge had opened the previous week. It seemed like the concrete had just cured on the steps into the building. It was a short, easy walk to the Rim Trail & cafeteria with ample parking right in front.
The Grand Canyon Nat’l Park had the most tourists of the four parks we visited. Death Valley, with the season about to end, had the least. In our travels, the most common foreign language we heard was French, with German next. We even got to say “shalom, shalom” to some folks from Israel. We wore masks when we were in crowds or indoors. Hardly anyone else was masked at any time.
We got to eavesdrop on some interesting & sometimes disturbing conversations; especially as we walked the Rim Trail.
Guy to his guy friend: “The (Biblical) flood really happened. Every group has the story…”
A discussion about gun silencers & the nuisance of getting the license in Arizona (About $200-). Said his friend, ”If I’m gonna shoot at someone, I want them to hear it.” & “ When I pull back the hammer on a Colt 45, there’s nothing like it.”
In the bar terrace at El Tovar “We gotta party, we’re from Minnesota.”
The bartender said they keep the drinks low alcohol because “…there’s a big hole out there.”
Then we saw Cynthia Nixon (“Sex & the City”, “The Gilded Age…”) walk by on the Rim Trail.
Water is an issue in the Grand Canyon Village, & just about every other place we had stayed earlier in our journey. A major exception is the Inn At Death Valley that had a constant flow from the mountains right behind it. There was no mention of water conservation anywhere; no signs; no nothing other than the signs from ranchers along 5 & 99 saying Gov. Newsom should dam everything.
The drive to Palm Springs took about 10 hours. Some of the drive was along the Historic Route 66; (Get Your Kicks…”) with too many jackasses encountered along the way.
I had read about the dark night skies in the parks along our route & the opportunity for star gazing. There was usually too much light pollution or we were too tired to stay awake after ten at night for awesome night sky observations. We spent the last day at Two Bunch Palms Spa in Desert Hot Springs where it was isolated & dark. About three in the morning, I was up for a bit & spent some time looking up at the sky & was rewarded with a spectacular shooting star sighting. We left early the next morning for the long drive home. We were lucky to bypass the Los Angeles area with no traffic back-ups …
…& then it was a straight shot up 5 & home.
On the road from Tropic, UT to the Grand Canyon.
DIXIE NAT'L FOREST - Red Cypress. Note the bike path paralleling the roadway.
We didn't stop.
Always, lots of trailers.
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"This photogenic antiques store, in Hatch, is a real landmark along this section of U.S. Route 89 (also known as Utah's Heritage Highway as it passes through the Mormon Pioneer Heritage Area)." From their now defunct website.
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Glendale, UT.
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Okay, here we thought we'd find a place for an espresso...
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“The theater opened in May, 2003. The Crescent Moon was conceived as a "Cowboy Theater," which fits the beautiful history of the Kanab area & its colorful history of western culture. The theater features musical entertainment, cowboy poetry, theater, dance performances, & film events. The theater shows first rate movies. Crescent Moon theater is Kanab's entertainment destination!”
We stopped for gas at the Chevron station. Squeegees in excellent condition, clean water, & plentiful paper towels to clean Miles' windshield, laughable bathroom signage, excellent people watching & petrol for less than $6-/gallon.
As I was washing the windshield, Nomi came out of the station having gone to the toilet. She said even if I didn't have to go I should go & check out the signage about sitting on the toilet.
Some other great signs were there.
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Hmmmmmm? She did buy it.
"Ya-Hoo Mountain Dew . It'll tickle your innards."
I spied a bookstore across the street from the gas station & thinking it might have espresso, drove across. And, yes!!
Phew. So far we had avoided the foolhardiness.
This fella liked our MINI roadster & the three of us talked cars for a while. He was driving a rented 7 series BMW. Nice.
In Fredonia, UT.
Vermilion Cliffs Nat'l Monument UT Scenic H'way 89A en route to the Grand Canyon.
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It must be lonely in that trailer with only a McDonald's billboard for company.
Kaibob-Paiute Tribal Lands. If you want to learn about the Paiute Tribe's history with the Mormon's in Utah, once again I recommend Under the Banner of Heaven on HULU. (Or, read the book).
This souvenir stand was not in operation but there were plenty of others on the roadside.
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Desert View - The first view point as we drove into the Grand Canyon. It was a grand scene but not breathtaking as it was so hazy. We asked folks about the haze & they said maybe from controlled burns. Or, we thought the New Mexico fires. The next day on the Rim Trail we came across this...
Sad.
We went on that trail, below, but bypassed the overlook.
I was entranced by the architecture & huge boulders along the Rim Trail.
El Tover Hotel c. 1905.
“When the Fred Harvey Company noticed that native American craftspeople were doing a booming trade selling their arts and crafts at railroad stops, they began planning Hopi House, a dedicated marketplace for native American wares on the South Rim. Located next to El Tovar Hotel, Hopi House is a prime example of Colter’s unique site-specific style. The building was built by Hopi craftsmen and constructed using local materials and salvaged items, such as Civil War-era Western Union telegraph poles and rails.”
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We encountered more tourists at the Grand Canyon than the other parks visited. The people watching was enjoyable & sometimes disturbing like the fellow’s T shirt that read “I Stand for the Flag & Kneel for the Cross.”
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Or a picture of an An AR-15-style rifle & "Try & take it from me." We eavesdropped on many a conversations along the Rim Trail.
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Mather Pt. Overlook.
Mather Pt. Overlook.
Mather Pt. Overlook.
Mather Pt. Overlook - Stansbury's Cliffrose.
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Mather Pt. Overlook.
Nomi thought someone used a ruler to put the lines in.
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A ranger talk about rocks. Too many people to safely stay around & listen.
The restaurant prices in the El Tovar Dining Room were astronomical. We discovered we could enjoy dinner outside the bar. From the very limited menu, a selection of chips, guacamole & veggie chile was perfect!
Our waiter, Damon born in Staten Island , NY, living in Lancaster, PA now. He unfortunately sold his car before coming here to work for the summer. The bus fare into nearby Flagstaff (where staff often went on their days off) was over 40 bucks. Compared to the older employees at Death Valley, here they were younger.
To the right, the bar terrace at El Tovar Hotel.
“El Tovar (the Harvey House in the Grand Canyon)…it was one of the Harvey Girls’ preferred places to work because they felt it a privilege to work in such a beautiful place.” “In 1920 the Fred Harvey Company became the primary concessionaire in the Grand Canyon. His company single-handedly developed the South Rim. In 1968, Xanterra acquired The Fred Harvey Co.”
Bright Angel Trail.
As the sun set, the colors became more vivid, overcoming the haze.
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Other things were revealed as well.
We had heard a lot of hootin' & a hollerin' coming from the Bright Angel Trailhead. People were celebrating completing the rim to rim walk. These three had started out that morning.
This guy camped overnight midway. His wife presented him with the socks when he arrived back at the trailhead.
We walked a few blocks from our room in the Maswick Lodge to come across this sight; like coming up on an ocean view. It was 6:30 in the morning (long drive ahead). Nomi took a look at the canyon & said "Nice but I'd give it a few more millennia."
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Ashford, AZ on Route 66.
Town of Seligman, AZ on Rte 66 - "Masks not required..." Lots of tour vans stopped here with many Asian tourists. The espresso was excellent & appreciated. This shop/cafe is owned by a lovely German couple.
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From the book Nomi got me for Father's Day, "Burma-Shave - The Rhymes, the Signs, the Times" by Bill Vossler. He's a very entertaining writer who keeps me chuckling.
“Farmers were even highlighted in the jingles:
‘Said farmer Brown
Who's bald
On Top
"Wish I could
Rotate the crop.”
Burma-Shave. (Verse 26)
and developed incredible loyalty to Burma-Shave.
Farmers not only bought Burma-Vita products, but, most important, they allowed Burma-Shave signs to be placed on their land. Burma-Shave probably wouldn't have worked without them.”
It was hard to photograph all six, in focus, while Nomi or I was driving at 60 m.p.h.
Elliot never thought he'd get a text from his parents saying that they were having lunch at a Taco Bell!
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Uh oh...
Saddle Sore Ranch (https://saddlesoreranch.com/) on Route 66 (milepost 36.5 on Oatman Hwy). “What to bring with you…
…*If you are going to be an a-hole, and start problems, bring bail money.
*Last, but not least, wear your party pants, or don’t wear any pants at all.”
I was intrigued by this sign & the scene. Lucky for Nomi that I didn't know what the interior held.
From their website: https://www.route66coolspringsaz.com//
“The New Cool Springs Sign is an exact replica of the vintage sign.
Cool Springs 2005 - Rebirth After 40 years Cool Springs is Open Again! The rebuilt Cool Springs station is now a gift shop offering Route 66 souvenirs and one of a kind Cool Springs memorabilia.”
“"...Soon Route 66 begins the climb up the Gold Hill Grade towards Oatman, Arizona. The ruins of an old gas station (referring to Cool Springs) on the right stand as a silent guardian at the entrance to the canyon, a lonely ghost of another time when a nation on the move paused at this spot. What stories are hidden away here? The little day-to-day dramas played out so long ago by people coming and people going, but stopping for a time here to rest? I stood among the ruins and looked out upon the desert. Nothing stirred. A gust of warm desert wind brushed up against my face then whispered in my ear before moving on – up and over the ruined, blackened stones. In the stillness now I thought I heard the wind echo “Something happened here once…”
~ The Road Wanderer Log, March 2001
“Ed's Camp was founded in the 1920s by Ed Edgerton, who set up the Kactus Cafe', a gas station, some campgrounds and related facilities to serve local miners.
Today, Ed's looks like it has been abandoned for years.”
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“In 1900, the Gold Road Mine was discovered by Jose Jerez. The mine has been producing gold ever since and has produced over $7,000,000 of gold. The town of Goldroad was founded in 1902 when a post office was established there. The post office closed in 1942. At its peak, Goldroad had 400 residents.
Today, there is mining going on at Goldroad. There is a lot of activity, but you can't see much of the mining operations.” “Seemingly, Gold Road was completely dead until a company called Addwest Minerals acquired the Gold Road Mine in 1992. After three years of development work, the mine began producing gold again. Hard-rock miners worked three shifts a day until 1998 when the bottom dropped out of the gold market again.”
“This stretch of Route 66 is one of the most unique to be found anywhere. The road climbs into the Black Mountains up Sitgreaves Pass to Oatman… The trip from Kingman, AZ …along this old alignment of Route 66 would make an exciting day trip. Oatman, Arizona is considered by some to be the most colorful old Route 66 town along the entire Mother Road. Don't forget to bring carrots though.”
“Oatman's famous ‘Wild’ Burros that wander the streets are the descendants of burros brought here by the miners, and when no longer needed were turned loose.”
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This stopped us in the middle of Oatman, surrounded by jackasses for about 20 long, hot minutes.
“Route 66 leaves Oatman and drops down into the desert on its way to Golden Shores on the Colorado River and California beyond. This was many a west bound traveler's first glimpse of the dreaded Mojave Desert. Today this stretch of road, gently following the swell of the land, is quiet and peaceful - unlike the wild old days of Route 66. The scenery is spectacular and offers some great photographic opportunities.”
Entering Palm Springs, CA.
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Ingleside Inn
“Hidden behind a row of lush hedges, discover a uniquely private retreat in our Spanish Revival landmark — just steps from Downtown Palm Springs, yet tucked away from it all. Ingleside Inn began as an intimate, invitation-only estate for old Hollywood’s inner circle, and the sun-soaked glow of timeless glamour and relaxed elegance still runs through our historic desert hideaway…the magic of Ingleside awaits.”
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The Farm restaurant. We came here for two breakfasts.
The Farm restaurant.
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Check out the bottom of that palm tree.
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Workshop Kitchen+Bar.
Workshop Kitchen+Bar.
Workshop Kitchen+Bar.
Our casita at the Ingleside Inn. Supposedly Carole Lombard & Clark Cable stayed here as well. I kept calling Nomi Carole but she didn't respond.
They are proud of their in room coffee.
Looking up at dawn.
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Frank's place. Other in the Rat Pack had homes in the vicinity.
That's Bob Hope's house up there. It looks like the Saarinen TWA terminal at JFK. I wanted to get a closer look but it was a private road to get up there.
Kenny Irwin found object sculpture.
Caesalpinia pulcherrima - Peacock Flower.
Tac/Quila reaturant. Two lunches here. Same owners as the Workshop Kitchen+Bar.
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The Uptown District in Palm Springs.
"Forever Marilyn" in front of the Palm Springs Art Museum c. 2011 by Seward Johnson. Returned to Palm Springs in 2021.
“Two Bunch Palms Spa Resort, Desert Hot Springs. The spa draws on the area's natural hot mineral water aquifers for its pools & treatments. “ Pretty much not great for us. My massage was pedestrian. But we did meet some interesting folks there…