Another Roadside Attraction
Southern Tier N.Y.S. August 2019
Exit signs of major NY highways noted local attractions a la Tom Robbins 1972 book, Another Roadside Attraction.
Of course we didn’t stop at all the attractions but one sign made us Google the Newton Battlefield.
A close look at a local map of Buffalo showed a road following the Lake Erie shore. It would be a slower route but was on our way to the Original Kazoo Co. Museum in Eden, NY. Turned out it was the Great Lakes Seaway Trail-A Scenic Byway. Gorgeous, lakefront homes of the wealthy Buffalonians were along the road. Big money houses at a steal of a price. Of course the weather is pretty miserable up there for much of the year.
The Original Kazoo Co. visit was a delight. Then on to Hammondsport. The Glenn Curtiss museum was fabulous beyond words. It came close to Peter Jackson’s Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre in Blenheim, New Zealand. We spent the equivalent of a whole day at the Curtiss Museum. Nomi spent more time in the museum shop. We had arrived about an hour before closing time. I sweet talked them into letting us have a ticket that could be used the next day too. I mentioned Mass MoCA’s two day entrance ticket.
Curtiss started as a bicyclist & then racer & then bicycle shop owner. He put a motor on a bicycle, & began building & racing motorcycles. When he put a V-8 engine on a motorcycle & raced it, he became the “Fastest Man on Earth.” At that point his wife begged him to give up motorcycle racing. He did & took up flying instead. He was in litigation with the Wright Bros. for decades, was responsible for the aircraft carrier, the U.S. Navy Base in San Diego, & creating the recreation of “Aerial Yachting” amongst many other accomplishments.
Another pleasant surprise was the Rockwell Museum in Ithaca. The permanent exhibit of US western art was great plus & a marvelously inventive exhibit by a painter we had never heard of, Nancy Lamb.
As a child I thought that the Catskills ended in Ellenville & Monticello, the Borscht Belt. I didn’t know of the 700,000 acre Catskill Park. Many of NYC’s reservoirs are there.
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
I had noticed on a detailed local map Lake Shore Road that followed Lake Erie. I didn't realize that it was a Scenic Byway. We turned right here. Scenic it was!
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Greycliff is a Frank Lloyd Wright designed lakeside summer home for the Martin family. The circa 1920's home has just been restored.
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The Kazoo Co. plus some other goodies were mentioned in these books. Thanks M & D. Circa '99 & '07 I had to verify that they still existed.
I made one.
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In deference to OSHA they made those boxes around the machine belts. Most of the employees are disabled in some way.
And that's all that big machine did, make those tiny folds.
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They're not operating the factory 5-6 days/week like they used to.
At the time of Bill's first inauguration, Hillary's office called to order many of those sax kazoos. Unfortunately the die had broken; never to be fixed.
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Across the road from the Kazoo Co.
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I just loved motoring down these roads. Wished that I was driving the MG here or riding my Rivendell.
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Nomi had asked, "So why are we spending the night in Hammonsport?"; this was why.
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The entrance to the Glenn H. Curtiss Museum automobile & aviation museum was hard to miss from the road.
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Curtiss would drive around Hammondsport on this thing testing out propellers & such until the town said "Enough!."
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Hammondsport, NY.
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Village Tavern Restaurant & Inn.
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On the wall of the Village Inn (where we spent the night) Restaurant. This photo of the 2007 "HISTORIC FLIGHT" 1911 Curtiss A1 Triad Seaplane replica that was handbuilt by the museum folks.
Friday Night Fish-fry. Oh so good.
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Downtown Hammondsport.
The town is on the southern tip of Keuka (Kew-ka) Lake. It was a perfect spot for testing Curtiss' seaplanes.
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
Alexander Graham Bell was part of Curtiss' "brain trust" & a partner.
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Our kitchen window was above the BRUNCH sign.
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
Another visit to the Curtiss Museum.
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This is a replica of a seaplane that flew across the Atlantic. This replica built by museum volunteers from the original plans, has been flown on Keuka Lake.
One could touch the oiginal propeller that went across the Atlantic Ocean. It was hanging on a nearby wall.
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Finger Lakes Boating Musuem, Hammondsport, NY in a converted winery.
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Imagine a day cruising the lake in this boat.
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Ithaca, NY
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On the Warpath by Cyrus Dallin 1914
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Visiters were asked to create their own titles for Lamb's paintings.
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And the winner of our epic ice cream sandwich contest was found here...
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Okay...
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Likely Phoenicia bluestone Brooklyn sidewalk.
Neatly marked trails.
Phoenicia, NY
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Phoenicia, NY.
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Not a VT brew but a local one.
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That's his daughter and he owned a bunch of Harleys one of which is in next photo.
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In addition to books, they lent ukuleles.
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But before dinner, a swim...
...a sauna...
...& an outdoor shower.
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