Jackson Hole, WY: Grand Teton & Yellowstone Nat'l Parks & Jackson, WY - October 2023

This is a long blog that could have been split into two, but I chose not to.

Our butcher at our local Woodlands Market is an aficionado of & frequent visitor to Jackson Hole, WY. Steve suggested we visit there & recommended several highlights of our stay; Rustic Inn Resort & Spa, Jackson, Cowboy Coffee, Antelope Flats Road, Dornan’s Pizza & Pasta Co. & the sunrise wildlife adventure with Eco Tours.

I thought, I wouldn’t take many photos in Jackson Hole. HAH! Every time we turned a corner, went around a bend in the road, topped an incline or just turned around, it was like “WOW!”

Schwabacher Landing beaver pond at sunrise.

And, there are lots of stories to tell.

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First we had to get there. After our last tour of National Parks, driving there was out of the question.

We flew United with a stopover in Denver.

But not in this 1918 CURTISS JENNY JN-4D Standard W.W. I Pilot Trainer that’s hanging in the Denver airport.

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Jackson Lake.

The approximate approach to Jackson Hole Airport (JAC). JAC is the only commercial airport in the United States located inside a national park, in this case Grand Teton.

Jenny, String & Leigh Lakes at the base of the Tetons.

Later in the week we would hike around String Lake.

JAC. First of many pieces of art we saw with a rider on a bucking bronco. Alas, we could not see it in person as it was no longer rodeo season.

Cache Street looking into downtown Jackson, seen as we arrived at the Rustic Inn Resort & Spa.

In the background are the slopes of “Snow King Mountain, lovingly known as Jackson's town hill.”

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Our cabin was facing the creek at the foot of the bridge.

A stylized bison.

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The TETON is now a pizza parlor & Jackson Drugs is a soda fountain serving homemade ice cream, malts, burgers & sandwiches. The Bucking Bronco welcome sign is above the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar where Kevin Costner’s band was to play the next night. He sold out in 14 minutes.

Siddney Montana.

Zugspitze Dunkel, 5.2%

Notes: Malt Sweetness, Chocolate.

Roadhouse Brewery.

Outside the Cowboy Bar.

Named after Davey Jackson, "Hole" was a term used in that day to describe a high mountain valley. Jackson Hole encompasses Grand Teton & Yellowstone National Parks.

During our week in Jackson Hole we encountered a chipmunk, racoon, beaver, grizzly bear, pronghorn antelope, red-tailed hawk & many sightings of elks, moose, squirrels, magpies, ravens, & bison.

Schwabacher Landing Trail at sunrise.

And turning to the left, Schwabacher Landing Trail at sunrise.

A few moments later; Schwabacher Landing Trail at sunrise.

Schwabacher Landing Trail at sunrise.

Turning around; Schwabacher Landing Trail at sunrise.

Schwabacher Landing Trail at sunrise.

Tetonhikingtrails.com: “From the parking area this flat, easy hike follows a well-worn path as it travels along a series of beaver ponds created along a braid of the Snake River...The ponds offer excellent photographic opportunities, especially in the early mornings when the towering Tetons are often reflected in the calm waters.”

Note the bull elk Nomi spotted in the middle left of the photo. His harem soon followed.

“The entire hike passes through excellent wildlife habitat. Mornings and evenings will be the best times to see a wide variety of wildlife; including moose, elk, pronghorn antelope, mule deer, coyote and bald eagles, as well as a variety of waterfowl.”

Schwabacher Landing Trail at sunrise.

“…The trail more or less traverses the boundary between wooded and wetland areas towards the west, and sagebrush flats towards the east…”

Hiking the Schwabacher Landing Trail at sunrise.

“…The ponds offer excellent photographic opportunities, especially in the early mornings when the towering Tetons are often reflected in the calm waters.”

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We took a drive along US Highway 26/287 from Moran, at the east entrance to Grand Teton Nat’l Park, towards Dubois. It’s called the Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway.

One of several times that we crossed the Continental Divide.

Looks like silky buttercream white cake icing atop those mountains.

Another "Oh, look at that; stop & pull over to the side of the road for a moment."

Brave souls.

Diamond Cross Ranch.

Oxbow Bend.

On one of the many times we drove by that week. We had to stop each time & "take it in."

On bridge over Jackson Lake.

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The ferry across Jenny Lake had stopped running for the season. So...

...we attempted a String Lake Hike. It wasn't easy at an elevation of 6,870-ft. - 6,930-ft.

But the reward was a delicious lunch with a view, at Dornan’s Pizza & Pasta Co. & The Spur Bar, in Moose.

“Veggie Stromboli - Spinach, Sun Dried Tomatoes, Red Onions, Mushrooms, Black Olives, with Mozzarella & Marinara dipping sauce.”

Accompanied by a Zonker Stout Nitrate, Snake River Brew. Co.

Every Monday night at Dornan’s, “the Jackson Hole Hootenanny (‘The Hoot’). Musicians gather to play traditional acoustic music for a receptive crowd in one of the most awe-inspiring settings in the world.”

Outside The National Museum of Wildlife Art, Jackson.

One of the most beautiful museums we’ve ever seen.

The “Idaho quartzite façade was inspired by the ruins of Slains Castle in Aberdeenshire, Scotland.”

Jackson.

Sunrise Grand Teton Wildlife Tour - Eco Tour w/ Jeff W.

“Each guest has access to Swarovski CL (8x30), EL (10x42) or NL (10x42) binoculars for personal use throughout the tour. ATX spotting scopes (30-70x magnification) are also available for viewing wildlife from afar… we capture all the action with Ollin spotting scope adapters…”

https://www.jhecotouradventures.com/

Not with scope; just the Fujifilm X30.

Small animal sighting; magpie chased by a squirrel.

Pronghorn antelope taken with ATX spotting scope by our guide.

Pronghorn antelope blocking a bicycle path. It's the fastest mammel in N. America.

Town Sq., Jackson.

Café Genevieve, Jackson.

Pig Candy Salad. “… cooked in house daily, thick applewood smoked bacon, coated with a blend of sugars and spices and baked low-and-slow for the perfect bite.”

Jackson.

When we were planning this adventure, folks told us the weather could be iffy this particular week. We lucked out with seven gorgeous days.

We were on our way to Inspiration Point in Grand Teton Nat'l Park for a sunset view when we were stopped by a herd of bison crossing the road.

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Inspiration Point. One could look & take a photograph but there was no matching Ansel Adams “who stood here in 1942 & took a photograph of this view the vast unspoiled beauty of the Snake River & the jagged Teton Range. The Nat'l Park Service hired Adams in 1941 to capture nature as exemplified by national parks. At the time local ranchers were battling a proposal to include the Jackson Hole valley in Grand Teton National Park. Adam's photographs helped promote & protect western U.S. landscapes."

And then I turned around…

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We were about two hours into our drive from Jackson & well into Yellowstone National Park. We noted that white plume up ahead. Coming from Marin County, we immediately thought “controlled burn.” I looked at the map & noted we were approaching the Geyser Basins & this was likely the the plume of water vapor from the Lone Star Geyser. The first of many wows!

That's probably the Castle Geyser.

Note the two bison, middle left, that sauntered into the frame.

Upper Geyser Basin ”is home to the largest numbers of geysers found in the park. Within one square mile there are at least 150 of these hydrothermal wonders.”

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Waiting patiently for Old Faithful.

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Next to Old Faithful.

They’re living together but getting married next year. We did not pursue a political discussion.

Upper Geyser Basin were we took a long walk.

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Chromatic pool.

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“Grotto Geyser erupts about every eight hours….The eruptions are about 10 feet (3.0 m) high and can last from about 1 hour to more than 10 hours long…”

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The white area in the background is the Upper Geyser Basin where we had just walked.

c. 1904 Old Faithful Inn with Widow's walk & flagpoles is "considered a masterpiece of rustic 'Parkitecture.' The hotel remains one of the largest log-style structures in the world and is a National Historic Landmark." Neat chimney too.

Fairly empty roads in the off season.

Yellowstone Lake.

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Trubute to fallen soldiers in front of the American Legion Post in Jackson.

The bistro of Rustic Inn Resort & Spa.

The bistro of Rustic Inn Resort & Spa. Interior decorating ideas.

Early morning fog above stairs carved by melt waters from the ancient Snake River embankment.

Then we turned around!

Fog will form overnight & tends to be densest at sunrise, as surface temperatures are lowest then.

Oxbow Bend; this time with a fog bank.

Approaching Yellowstone National Park.

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Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from the South Rim.

Hiking the South Rim was arduous for us at an altitude of about 7,900’. Plus we had a hard time finding the trailhead.

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from the North Rim.

Sunrise; Rustic Inn Resort & Spa.

Rustic Inn Resort & Spa, at sunrise.

Sunrise; Rustic Inn Resort & Spa, Jackson.

Rustic Inn Resort & Spa, Jackson.

In season, he’s a bull rider. We didn’t see that coming.

Rustic Inn Resort & Spa, Jackson.

As we turned onto Antelope Flats Road, in the distance, we saw a line of cars along the road. We had learned that usually means a wildlife sighting.

Antelope Flats Road.

Mormon Row on Antelope Flats Road.

Morman Row on Antelope Flats Road.

Ansel Adams took an iconic photo of this barn on Mormon Row.

Mormon Row on Antelope Flats Road.

Nomi thought this outhouse looked inviting.

Morman Row on Antelope Flats Road.

The Mormons hand dug these irrigation canals.

Driving the Moose-Wilson Road, an 8 mile scenic drive between Teton Village and Moose, WY.

The descriptions we had read about this drive noted that this section was a dirt road. They had just paved it. There were many road bike riders enjoying riding on the smooth, fresh asphalt.

I liked this fencing.

Poker Flats - Homesteaded 1963, on the Moose Wilson Road.

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Teton Village, home of world class skiing.

Teton Village.

One of many families we saw with four children. In this case one appeared to have been a surprise.

Vintage whiskey display at GARY CRANDALL’s gallery in Jackson. Medicine Bird Gallery (aka Gray Crane Studios) in Jackson. https://graycranestudios.com/

After many days of walking around Jackson, we finally stopped in only one of the scores of galleries. By chance, this gallery was an excellent choice.

Wyoming Whiskey.

He’s from San Jose, CA.

2nd guy seen in town with hand gun in his waistband.

Street crossing with moose horse shoe sculpture & flags with the state seal.

C. 1941 Wort Hotel.

It houses the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar.

Wort Hotel.

The Playhouse. There were iconic swinging doors into the bar. I went in one & before I went out the other…

…got this shot.

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COWBOY Coffee. It was suggesrted that we go here for coffee.

We visited twice & weren't disappointed.

This was the 2nd time we noticed this license plate art. The other was JACKSON with the letters assembled from many license plates. Clever.

Jackson.

LOCAL Restaurant, Jackson

Jenny Lake Lager from Snake Brew. Co., Jackson.

At the LOCAL Restaurant, Jackson.

They kept us entertained while we waited for our order.

LOCAL Restaurant, Jackson.

The salmon was fabulous but the trout was dry. The waiter gave us 20% off when that was mentioned.

Return visit to purchase a postcard of a moose. Display at GARY CRANDALL’s gallery in Jackson Medicine Bird Gallery (aka Gray Crane Studios) in Jackson. https://graycranestudios.com/

GARY CRANDALL's gallery in Jackson - Gabe from Roumania with 2 masters degress in geology describing Gary’s work.

Gabe was anxiously awaiting his second winter in Jackson having survived his first here when the temperature dove to 40 below.

GARY CRANDALL's gallery in Jackson - Medicine Bird Gallery (aka Gray Crane Studios).

Awesome photo of Mormon Row barn in snow.

https://graycranestudios.com/

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Our soon to be flight crew taking selfies on the gangway. When later asked the pilot recounted that two of the flight attendants had never been to JAC,

JAC.

"Is everything okay?"

Woman who bought out Jackson - Hat, boots, leather fringed jacket, sweater, rings & a silver belt.